Horse Driving Equipment

A complete driving harness includes several connected parts that work together rather than a single strap. Most sets pair a bridle (often with blinders) to a breast collar or breeching, a back saddle or surcingle, a crupper, and a set of driving lines. Some economy harnesses leave the bit out entirely since drivers tend to have their own preference.

• Bridle: usually fitted with blinders to limit the horse's peripheral vision
• Breast collar or breeching: the pulling and braking connection points
• Back saddle/surcingle: sits where a riding saddle would, but distributes shaft weight instead
• Crupper: loops under the tail to keep the saddle from sliding forward
• Driving lines: the equivalent of reins, run from the bit back to the driver's hands

Sizing for driving harnesses runs by height at the withers for ponies and minis, and by weight for full-size horses and cobs. A rough guide most harness makers follow puts minis under 38 inches, ponies between 39 and 46 inches, cobs in the 500 to 800 pound range, and horses from 800 to 1,100 pounds. Because harness parts adjust at multiple points, getting the general size category right matters more than chasing an exact inch measurement.

Both work well, but they serve different priorities. Nylon harnesses hold up to weather and require almost no upkeep, making them a smart pick for lesson horses or anyone driving several times a week without time for conditioning leather. Leather harnesses, especially hand-sewn ones, offer a classic look and tend to be favored for the show ring, though they need regular cleaning and oiling to stay supple.

• Nylon: weatherproof, low maintenance, budget friendly for frequent use
• Leather: traditional appearance, better for showing, needs conditioning to avoid cracking
• Biothane or synthetic blends: combine leather looks with wipe-clean convenience, common on racing and training harnesses

Yes, blinders serve a real function rather than just tradition. They narrow the horse's field of vision so it stays focused forward instead of reacting to carts, other horses, or crowd movement at its sides. This is especially important in driving, where a startled horse has less room to maneuver than one carrying a rider.

• Full cup blinders: block nearly all side and rear vision, common on standard driving bridles
• Half cup hoods: allow partial peripheral sight, often used in training or lighter work
• Mesh eye hoods: protect the eye area while still calming a horse that startles easily

No, many driving bits share the same basic mouthpiece designs used under saddle, but the cheekpieces and rein attachment points are often built differently to suit long lines instead of direct rein contact. A gaited or comfort mouthpiece bit, for example, works for both disciplines, while overcheck bits and draw gag bridles are specific to driving because they manage head carriage without a rider's seat and legs for support. The right choice depends more on the individual horse's mouth and training level than on riding versus driving alone.

Driving lines typically run much longer than riding reins, often between 24 and 30 feet total length, since the driver stands or sits well behind the horse instead of on its back. Extra length gives room for turns, circles, and training exercises where the horse needs to move away from the handler. Material also affects feel, with cotton web lines offering a firmer grip and biothane or nylon options prioritizing weather resistance.

• Training and ground work: longer lines, often 24 feet or more, allow circles and distance work
• Cart driving: shorter, direct lines connect straight from bit to driver's hands
• Grip style: cotton web offers texture for control, biothane sheds mud and rain easily